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李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion

by reachhome on 1970年1月1日
, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion
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Chinese sportswear brand Li-Ning last Tuesday debuted its fall/winter 2019 collection at the ongoing New York Fashion Week. It is the second time the brand showcases its collections at the NYFW after it made its Paris Fashion Week debut last June, showing its spring 2019 collection.

上周二,“国货之光”李宁再次走上了纽约时装周,这也是李宁在2018秋冬纽约时装周和2019春夏巴黎时装周后,再次回归纽约时装周的秀场。

, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion

番茄炒蛋逆袭

After a model presenting a new design featuring bold Chinese characters “China Li-Ning” at the 2018 New York Fashion Week, the namesake brand founded by the world-class athlete with 106 gold medals in 1990 became popular worldwide.

 

去年二月,当胸前印着“中国李宁”四个大字的模特走上2018秋冬纽约时装周的秀场时,这个1990年李宁创立的同名运动品牌瞬间打破了“低价运动品牌”的定位,不仅在国内时尚圈一炮而红,更被冠以“国货之光”的名称,受到了海内外明星潮人的关注。

, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion

As the Chinese leader in athletic apparel and footwear, Li-Ning showed a reinterpretation of Chinese design, catching eyes by redesigning Chinese red-and-yellow Olympic uniforms and noticeable logo of “China Li-Ning” in the fashion world.

, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion

作为一个众所周知的的运动品牌,李宁带来的是对中国风的全新诠释,不论是重新设计了中国国家队最有代表性的“番茄炒蛋”配色,还是超级吸睛的 “中国李宁”的中国字体logo,都颠覆了国外时装界对于中国风就是“旗袍和龙凤刺绣”这样的认知。

, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion

After its first launching internationally at New York Fashion Week, Li-Ning turned to the French fashion capital to continue its global push, with its latest gym suit and sportswear honoring the 90s.

在2019春夏巴黎时装周上,开挂的李宁把上世纪90年代的复古运动风潮的体操服、运动服重新演绎搬上巴黎的秀场,让国外时装博主们纷纷惊叹“原来1990的中国是如此时髦”!

, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion
, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion
, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion

A model presented a new design by Li-Ning during the 2019 S/S Paris Fashion Week, June 21, 2018.

2019春夏巴黎时装周

A T-shirt with a portrait poster of Li Ning became the best seller of Li-Ning, after the famous American model Bella Hadid wearing the T-shirt, accessorized with large silver hoop earrings and tiny sunglasses. 

 

一件印着手李宁人像海报的复古T恤,因为欧美带货王Bella Hadid的街拍,成了最热门的秀款。

, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion

American model Bella Hadid stepped out wearing the T-shirt.

穿着李宁T恤的Bella Hadid

再次征战纽约

, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion

The collection centering on the theme “travel,” explores three dimensions: the city, the country, and the journey between the two. Chen Lijie, the brand’s chief apparel designer, said his designs was inspired by traditional Chinese philosophy: Man is an integral part of nature.

 

这一季李宁以“行”为主题,从城市、旅程、自然这三个篇章来展现“行”的主题,将中国山水与户外运动旅行文化结合,展现出中国“天人合一”的特色文化色彩。

, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion
, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion
, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion
, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion
, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion
, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion

CITY | 城市

, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion
, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion
, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion
, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion
, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion
, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion

JOURNEY | 旅程

, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion
, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion
, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion
, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion
, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion
, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion

NATURE | 自然

While still focusing on sportswear with iconic logo of “China Li-Ning,” Li-Ning’s latest collection also features laudable outdoor clothing, multi-pocket design, fluorescent and earth tone colors, which makes a big hit on the street. At the same time, Li-Ning pays tribute to China’s most magnificent national parks such as Zhangjiajie in Hunan Province and the Yellow Mountain in Anhui Province, by rendering their images as bold graphics on T-shirts and sweaters, with strong touch of Chinese landscape painting.

除了有李宁标志性的logo的经典运动套装,特别值得称赞的是李宁这一季推出的户外运动服及一系列户外运动单品,多口袋的宇航服设计也让它成为了街拍的大热门,耀眼的荧光色和大地色搭配中国张家界、嵩山、黄山等知名景点的图案,与中国山水主题呼应,不刻意强调中国风,却将中国文化暗藏其中。

, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion

The collection offered up a solid eighties-inspired sportswear/streetwear vibe that successfully blended true athletic references with retro graphics that worked best in tracksuits with colorful paneling. A similar sensibility was applied to the tailored pieces, which were updated with back drawstrings on navy pinstriped jackets that served to create great visually appealing waist effects. But the highlight came in oversized utility anoraks and parkas that projected a street hiker look and gave the athletic message a cool globe-trotting direction.

 

该系列提供了一种上世纪80年代风格的运动服/街头服饰氛围,成功地将真正的运动元素与复古图形融合在一起,这种图形最适合搭配彩色拼接的运动服。类似的感觉也被运用到其他设计上,海军细条纹夹克上的后束带进行了更新,创造出了极具视觉吸引力的腰部效果。但最引人注目的是超大的风帽夹克和派克大衣,它们投射出街头徒步者的形象,并为这种运动风格指引了一个酷炫的环球旅行方向。

——wwd.com

, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion

The new decoration featuring Chinese landscape painting on the sleeves of the outdoor clothings together with the logo, may become the new visual label of Li-Ning outdoors.

 

, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion

最新出现在户外运动服logo上方的中国山水图案,或许会成为李宁户外系列的新标志。

, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion
, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion

Chinese actress Kan Qingzi wears the new collection of Li-Ning 2019FW.

中国女演员阚清子的这件运动上衣也是这次大秀上的热门款。

国潮为什么突然火了?

, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion

The first launching of Li-Ning at New York Fashion Week was a part of “NYFW: China Day,”which was originally established by Chinese e-commerce giant Tmall. Besides the success of Li-Ning, Chinese brands Peacebird and Bosideng have also won a public praise overseas after their being presented at NYFW.

李宁第一次走上纽约时装周的舞台,其实是因为“纽约时装周中国日”的契机,从2018年开始,今年已经是第三次“中国日”了。除了一炮而红的李宁,太平鸟、波司登等中国本土品牌都在海外秀场成功逆袭,完成了从“低价品牌”到“国潮”的转身,并且取得了不错的海外口碑。

“We are seeing a dramatic rise in creativity in China,” said Jessica Liu, president of Tmall Fashion and Luxury. “While China used to look to the West for the latest in fashion and design, we are seeing the phenomenon of ‘China Cool,’ as young creators incorporate authentic and traditional Chinese elements into their designs, setting major fashion trends in China.”

天猫时尚与奢侈品总裁Jessica Liu表示:“我们看到中国的创意水平正在显著提高。虽然中国过去常常向西方寻求最新的时尚和设计,但我们看到了‘中国酷’的现象,因为年轻的创作者在设计中融入了中国传统元素,开始引领中国的主要时尚潮流。

, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion
, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion
, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion

Qingdao Beer × NPC hoodie showed on the “China Day” at the  2019F/W  NYFW, February 14, 2019.

2019秋冬纽约时装周中国日上的青岛啤酒×NPC联名款。

, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion

Laoganma sweatshirt and Yunnan Baiyao hoodie showed on the “China Day” at the  2019S/S  NYFW, September 10, 2018.

2019春夏纽约时装周中国日上的老干妈卫衣和云南白药外套。

BOSIDENG波司登

, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion

As one of the leaders of Chinese fashion, Bosideng delivered its new brand massage on the second China Day at NYFW last September. Although advertised “sold over 72 countries”, it was a real debut of Bosideng internationally.

 

波司登成为“国潮”,就是从去年9月11日纽约时装周中国日的一场大秀开始的,虽然波司登广告里总是说“畅销全球72个国家”,但是真正作为一个时髦的品牌走上四大时装周,这确实是第一次亮相。

, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion

Lots of Hollywood stars were invited for the show of Bosideng. Hollywood actress Anne Hathaway, wearing Bosideng’s new collection featuring the long silver garment splashed of purple and white blossoms, sat in the front row of the fashion show with her husband Adam Shulman. Hollywood actor Jeremy Renner sat on her other side.

, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion

众多好莱坞明星坐在了秀场第一排,最抢镜的就是穿着印着紫色中国风印花款波司登羽绒服的安妮·海瑟薇和她的老公亚当·舒尔曼以及坐在她另一边的“鹰眼”杰瑞米·雷纳。

, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion

Anne Hathaway was spotted donning a floral, down feather garment as she appeared at the event.

安妮海瑟薇穿着穿着印着紫色中国风印花款波司登羽绒服出现在秀场上。

The new collection of Bosideng presented at NYFW broke the stereotype of the brand, which was only for middle-aged and elderly Chinese people. A new haute down jacket for outdoor was launched last November. The jacket priced over 2000 yuan used the world’s top fabric GORE-TEX. The new jacket is reviewed by many Chinese fashion critics as more valuable than Canada Goose, which is also known for its feather jacket, generally sold at over 10,000 yuan. The Chinese haute down jacket has now been the favorite of many fashion icons.

 

在纽约时装周上推出的秀款也打破了大家对于波司登“中老年专属”的刻板印象,大秀之后,波司登推出了单件定价超过2000元人民币的新款高端羽绒服系列,声势直逼加拿大鹅,这个有着42年历史的老牌子一跃成为了“网红”。

, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion
, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion

Chinese Olympic champion Yangyang and fashion icon Han Huohuo in Bosideng haute down jacket for outdoor

短道速滑世界冠军杨扬和时尚博主韩火火都穿上了波司登的高端系列

PEACEBIRD太平鸟

, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion

Chinese brand, Peacebird, showcased their heavily charcoal-toned Fall/Winter collection at this year’s NYFW as a part of the China Day, one year after its oversea debut. Sesame Street’s characters has been printed on the T-shirts and sweaters on the show, after its successful collection collaborated with iconic American brand Coca-Cola last year. The co-branded line has sparked a flurry of street snaps on instagram.

在2018年1月的纽约首秀之后,时隔一年,太平鸟上周再次登上了纽约时装周中国日的秀场。2018年和可口可乐推出的联名系列取得成功之后,太平鸟这次选择的海外icon是芝麻街,预感又会成为新一轮的朋友圈刷屏爆款。

, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion

 

“Peacebird’s fascination with youth culture as its main inspiration may have been the reasoning behind introducing the nonspecific Sesame Street’s character Oscar and Elmo on a T-shirt. It also may have been why nearly all the models were wearing identical black slim sunglasses, or a hat to cover their faces. Not to mention the Made in China statement, a precedent to a new and evolving country. Overall, Peacebird proved why it’s one of the fastest growing fashion brands in China and the potential for it to become one elsewhere too.”

 

太平鸟对青年文化的迷恋是它的主要灵感来源,这可能是它将芝麻街的非特定角色奥斯卡(Oscar)和埃尔莫(Elmo)印在t恤上的原因。这也可能是为什么几乎所有的模特都戴着同样的黑色修身太阳镜,或者用帽子遮住脸。总的来说,太平鸟证明了它为什么是中国增长最快的时尚品牌之一,以及它在其他地方成为时尚品牌的潜力。

——vman.com, a fashion website featuring men’s clothing

, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion
, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion

Looks from NYFW18 Peacebird show

2018秋冬纽约时装周

, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion

Peacebird Men x Cocacola

太平鸟和可口可乐的联名款

 

A fashion trend led by Chinese brands, known as guochao started unexpectedly last year. Many Chinese young people turned back to original Chinese sportswear brands like Li-Ning, instead of Supreme and Champion, two powerful athletic brands from US. The millennials are the loyal followers of these Chinese brands, with brand new look featuring the oversize cutting and bold Chinese characters on T-shirts. Many of them post their look on instagram, tagging themselves “guochao youth.”

 

国潮这股风气从何时开始?可能没有一个具体的时间点,但是我们看到的是,更多的年轻人开始从Supreme和Champion这样的海外潮牌回归,尝试去购买李宁等中国原创品牌的设计。在众多明星和潮人的带动下,90后成为了国潮的购买主力,如果要给国潮一个定义,除了抢眼的中国字印花和oversize的剪裁,更多的是“国潮青年”自发的抢购和晒货热潮

, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion
, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion

Zhang Xincheng, a Chinese actor born in 1995, wearing Li-Ning

新生代演员张新成穿着李宁运动服

The first 500 pairs of Li-Ning Men NYFW Wade Essence II Basketball Culture Shoes priced at US$150 were sold out within seconds on Tmall last June, so did the 1500 pairs launched by the brand days later. That demonstrated the vigor of Chinese brands, once stereotyped as “old, cheap and flat.”

 

去年6月10日,李宁在天猫独家发售的500双乐高版“悟道”球鞋,几秒钟就被抢光。6月14日,1500件产品在天猫上架后,瞬间又被抢光了。无疑,这是潮牌受欢迎程度最好的例证。

, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion

More Chinese time-honored brands have been involved in the trend of guochao. Two Shanghai time-honored brands, White Rabbit (a Chinese candy brand established in 1959 known for its creamy candy) and maxam (a beauty brand created in 1962 known for producing the first hand cream in China), launched a joint product last September, named “White Rabbit candy-flavored lip balm,” which was sold out within seconds.

 

更多的中华老字号也加入了这场国货潮流之中,去年9月,大白兔和美加净两家上海老字号推出了联名款产品——“大白兔奶糖味润唇膏”,在首发当日就被秒光。

, 李宁再走纽约时装周,国潮在海外到底受欢迎吗? Chinese brand leans into high fashion

“Everything has to be good on an international level and only then will we be able to stand proudly and say ‘this is Chinese made,’”said the fashion designer Edison Chen at the US-China Entrepreneurship and Leadership Development Forum. Chen is the founder of CLOT, a clothing company geared toward youth culture.

 

买国货、用国货、晒国货,已经成为 “ 国潮青年 ” 的一种新的日常生活方式。

 

2017年 9 月 30 日,陈冠希在纽约大学的一场演讲在朋友圈里刷屏。他的一席话积极地为 “ 中国制造 ” 正名。

 

陈冠希说: “我们不能在一个‘在中国市场这么做已经算优秀了’的标准下工作,所有的工作必须在国际标准下都是优秀的,只有这样我们才能骄傲地说出:‘这是中国制造’。”

With more Chinese clothing brands appearing the big four fashion weeks, the image of “made in China” starts to be interpreted in a new light.

中国品牌的崛起也让”Made in China” 不再是终端制造业的代名词,而是有中国态度和特色设计的新网红。“国潮”正在积极地通过四大时装周的平台接轨世界潮流,带来全新的海外中国热潮。

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